Ann's Blog
Chaguaramas, Trinidad:
November 26, 2012:
Cookin’ up a pumpkin
with skin like a toad
One of my favourite Trinidadian words is crapaud. Pronounced “cra-póh,” it comes from the French Creole and generally refers to any toad or frog. Usually, however, the creature in question is specifically a Bufo marinus, a large, extremely common toad that’s native to Trinidad and can grow – wait for it – up to 9 inches long. (The largest recorded specimen was 15 inches long, but I’m not counting that one since it was kept as a pet and likely didn’t have to work very hard for its lunch.) In my experience, spotting a live crapaud takes some looking, but finding one flattened on the road is (sorry) dead easy, especially during rainy season, when they wander about looking for a place to lay their eggs. I love the word crapaud because it’s at the root of several fabulous Trini expressions. Like “crapaud-foot writing.”
In fact, I suffer from this affliction: It means my handwriting is almost illegible, as if a toad scratched out a message with a pen held between two of its three toes. “Crapaud goin’ to church” means the same thing, though Lord knows why.
outside, but it's sweet and delicious inside
that warty skin
And then there’s “crapaud smoke yuh pipe” – which means you are in big trouble. (Think about it: Would you want one of your personal items in a toad’s mouth?) If crapaud smoke yuh pipe, things are as bad as if “corbeau (a large vulture) pee on yuh.” Things are definitely not going your way.
Much, much better is “crapaud-back pumpkin,” named for its lumpy, toad-like skin. I’d heard it was delicious – its flesh very sweet and not at all watery – but I’d never seen one until a few days ago. On a day trip with Jesse James, we stopped at a roadside stand on the east coast of Trinidad, between Manzanilla and Mayaro, for wedges of watermelon fresh from the field behind it.
I had no intention of waiting that long. Last night, I peeled and cut half of it into chunks and steamed it as directed. Then I sautéed onion, garlic, and seasoning peppers in a little olive oil and butter, added some Trini curry, tossed the pumpkin in the mixture, let it cook for a few minutes, and mashed/puréed it with my wand blender.
sada roti was a smash(ed) hit
I can hardly wait to use the other half.
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