Ann's Blog
Layou, Dominica:
Sept. 16, 2010
A Miracle in the Mountains
Before I tell you about the miracle in Dominica’s mountains, let me warn you that this will be my last blog for a couple of weeks: I’m heading off to explore Spain – Barcelona, Valencia, and Andalucia, specifically – for the first time. This trip will be strictly land travel – no sailboat involved. Though it’s a far cry from the Caribbean, you can bet I’ll be sharing my discoveries in the local markets, kitchens, tapas bars, bodegas, and restaurants in my blog once I’m back.
For one night, we’ll be staying high up into the Sierra Nevada, in a village called Trevelez, which is noted for its serrano hams. I’m already worried about what Steve will stash in the rental car when we leave. Steve is just smiling like the Cheshire cat, and focusing on how great the driving will be. You know him and rental cars.
Thinking about that upcoming drive into the mountains of Spain reminded me of a trip into the mountains of Dominica last cruising season. We had rented a car for a day with our friends Yani and Chris on Magus to accomplish some boat chores (like filling our propane tanks) and also to explore a backroad or two.
off the Miracle that the mapmakers have missed.
The one we chose was clearly marked on our new map, not even a year old: It would take us off the beaten path but circle us back to the main road. But as we started driving, it kept getting narrower, and bumpier, and more overgrown. And it began sprouting signs that read “Miracle Lake,” with an arrow pointing the way we were going.
The photos here tell the tale. Essentially, the road ended, at a crumpled edge that fell away hundreds of feet into nothingness. At the bottom was an exquisite emerald lake – a lake that didn’t exist before 1997 when it was formed in seven days after a landslide dammed the Layou River. Is it any wonder locals called it “Miracle Lake”?
end of the rainbow, it's a long way down.
The story of the lake’s formation was told to us by “Rambo,” whose land borders the ex-road and who watched the lake fill during that week 13 years ago. He’s put up a series of barricades, so you’re stopped well before you get to the edge. Good thing, since Dominican map-makers are a little behind the times.
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